Starting Seeds Indoors

When I lived (until a few years ago) in Pittsburgh, PA, I could not wait to get my hands back in the dirt after many long, dark, winter days. I usually spent the end of January planning and plotting my upcoming garden and depending on what I wanted to grow, would begin my seeds sometime in the beginning of February.


Here is a seed starting system that I found to work best for me year after year.

Organic seeds are available at my etsy shop: www.homegrownhealthy.etsy.com

Supplies:
*Soilless Mix for seed starting, also called seed starting mix
*Small containers, I use yogurt cups with holes punched into the bottom
*Plastic wrap and rubber bands
*Tray to place containers on for water drainage
*Seedling Heat Mat (I use an old heating pad)
*Two-light shoplight fixture (can purchase from hardware store)
*Fluorescent bulbs, one warm, one cool per shoplight
*Power strip (to plug in light, timer, heating pad)
*Light timer


Directions:
1. Moisten soilless mix until wet, but not soaking.

2. Fill small containers such as 6-pack flats, yogurt containers (make drain holes) or other with the wet soilless mix. I use separate trays or containers per seed type since days to germination vary per plant type.

3. Use a toothpick to put holes in the soil in the middle of each container, follow planting depth instructions per seed type then place 2-3 seeds per hole. Gently push soil over hole and pat lighting. Cover with plastic wrap (or tray cover, if using) and secure with rubber band to keep plastic tight and from touching the soil.

4. Place the containers into some type of tray (for water drainage) and onto a seedling heat mat or old heating pad turned to low. Make sure that the bottoms of the containers are not subjected to temperatures above 70-75 degrees. If it feels too warm, cover the heating pad with a towel or two. Once the seeds have sprouted, remove the heating pad so that you do not cook the roots.

5. Water lightly ever day with a mister or spray bottle so that the soil remains damp, but not over soaked.

6. Once the seeds start to sprout, you must remove the cover or plastic wrap and place the tray under fluorescent lights, 2 inches from the bulbs. Set the timer so that the seedlings get 16 hours of light a day. As the seedlings grow, use the shop light chain system to raise the lights so that 2 inches is maintained between the plants and the bulbs.

7. Fertilize the seedlings with fish emulsion once every 10 days. Dilute with water according to the package instructions.

8. Once the seedlings produce their second set of leaves, snip off the stems of the two weaker plants if applicable, so there is only one plant per container. At this stage you will want to allow the soil to dry slightly in between waterings.

9. Before planting outside, make sure to harden off the seedlings. Place outside for a few hours each day, increasing the number of hours outside each day for one week.

CAVEAT: After a 4-6 weeks of growth, if you are unable to plant the seedlings outside, transplant them into a larger pot so as not to stunt their growth or bind their roots. Then harden off and plant outside when danger of frost has passed and proper soil temperature has been reached.

FALL PLANTING

After spending two months back east this summer and missing all of the harvest from my summer garden, I am gearing up to begin my fall planting. I also have been busy collecting seed from my summer crops which I have been posting for sale each day at: www.homegrownhealthy.etsy.com

The main benefit of living in a Zone 10 (besides the lack of slush and cold) is the extended gardening season. Since I ultimately want to be able to increase the overall % of organic food production for my family, a fall planting is imperative to achieving this goal. Being fairly new to zone 10 though I am having a hard time believing that so many vegetables can grow over the winter months, but after consulting multiple sources I am assured that these crops (and many more) can be grown over fall/winter in zone 9-10. To see what zone you live in, go to: www.backyardgardener.com/zone/index.html

My modest Fall Garden will consist of:
Garlic, Onions, Carrots, Winter Zucchini, Beets, Broccoli, Radish, Kale, Salad Greens

Other common cool-season crops for Zones 9-10 are:
Brussels sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, Endive, Leeks, Parsley, Parsnip, Spinach, Swiss Chard, Sweet Peas, Turnips
(Can be planted in September-December)

Some Cool-Season Flowers include:
Calendula, Cineraria, Dianthus, Delphiniums, Iceland poppies, Pansies, Snapdragon, Wildflowers
(Free wildflower seeds are available at my site with other seed purchase: www.homegrownhealthy.etsy.com).

Source: www.digitalseed.com/gardener/schedule/vegetable.html

To help you plan your Fall/Winter garden go to: The National Gardening Association: www.garden.com/ for articles and support.

Happy Fall Planting!

Love and Sunshine,
Mandaseed

Disclaimer: Mandaseed does not claim to be an expert, simply an amateur gardener sharing her experiences.

SAVING SEED

To Seed or Not to Seed
Part of my satisfaction in gardening is taking self-sufficiency to the next level by also collecting my own organic seeds to plant the following season (hear that Monsanto!). However, since most leafy plants like herbs, lettuces and other greens will stop producing once they begin to flower, there are decisions to be made in determining when to allow which plant to seed.

Although I want to eventually collect the seed, I also want to extend the lifecycle of the plant, so one simple way to do this with an herb or leafy green is to immediately remove the seed stalk once you see the plant begin to flower. In my garden this year that would apply to the sweet basil, lime basil, parsley, marjoram, oregano, mustard greens, mesclun greens, and lettuces. Since the plant can only be tricked so long to keep producing, you want to watch for signs that the plant is headed toward the end of its life cycle. This is evidenced by slowed growth and the plant stalk starting to become tall and spiny. At the first signs of this, I stop plucking the flowers and allow the plant to seed.

I have been able to extend the growth cycle of many lettuce leaves and produce twice as much basil this way. And I can’t imagine eating pasta without my fresh pesto sauce so believe me, I want MORE basil! In fact, I just harvested my garlic bulbs and hung them to dry last week. And with a fresh bunch of basil in hand, I’m off to the kitchen to start chopping.

Homegrown Vegan Basil Pesto
In an attempt to create a healthier version while still enjoying the flavor of pesto, this version uses less than half the oil of a traditional pesto and no cheese. Adjust for your own taste.

2 large handfuls of basil leaves (washed and stems removed)
5 arugula leaves
2 cloves garlic
¼ cup of pine nuts, dry toasted
1 tsp fresh squeezed lemon juice
3 Tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil
Dash sea salt and pepper to taste

1. Wash basil leaves and remove stems.

2. In a small frying pan dry toast the pine nuts over low heat until they start to brown and let off a nutty smell.

3. Throw all of the ingredients (except the oil) into a food processor and pulse into small pieces, scraping down the sides with a spatula as necessary.

4. With the food processor still running, slowly add the oil in the top tunnel in a slow stream until it is well incorporated.

5. Toss over warm pasta and serve immediately.

This portion size works well to cover enough penne or bow tie pasta for two. I like to make and eat pesto fresh rather than have enough for leftovers and if you need more than two servings, simply double or triple this recipe.

Disclaimer: Mandaseed does not claim to be an expert, simply an amateur gardener sharing her experiences.

Garden Friend or Foe

One of the challenges I faced in learning how to garden organically was discovering how to differentiate beneficial insects from harmful ones and then figuring out what to do with them. Researching and becoming familiar with beneficial insects has been crucial to my production of a successful yield. Two great resources for me have been insect field guides and an awesome website called What’s That Bug: www.whatsthatbug.com

As a vegetarian and active animal advocate I have always held animals in the highest regard, but it was my husband who taught me that insects deserve this same level of respect. Therefore, we do not knowingly or willingly kill insects in our family and that includes in the garden. So what do we do? It depends on what is being eaten and at what speed. Learning to deal with insects organically and humanely has been a process that evolves with each growing season. I love that about the passing of time; we learn and we grow.

Some Common Insects and Solutions

Aphids—you are out of here. Call in the ladybugs as they are one beneficial insect that can literally save your garden. And it is so pretty to see them flying around every day. Go on an expedition early in the morning to collect them in your neighborhood or they can also be ordered online, do a Google search.

Spiders—leave the poor spiders be. As one of the most hated insects these guys get a very bad rap. They are very helpful as they catch and prevent a multitude of insects from munching on your vegetables.

Grasshoppers—sorry guys but any form of grasshopper or cricket is not welcome in our garden because they can wipe out an entire crop overnight. As I see them I carefully place them in my insect collection box, place water in there and then when we take our dogs on their next walk that day we take the box and move the grasshoppers to a safe location.

Tomato Horn Worms—Ok, here is the deal with these guys. You might find them in your garden in one of three stages: the larva (caterpillar)stage; as pupae under the soil; and then once they emerge from a pupae into what is called a hawkmoth. I find them in the pupae stage every spring when I turn over the soil. Apparently once they are in the pupae and moth form they are not harmful to your garden and therefore can be left alone. It is in the larva stage that they end up doing serious damage to tomatoes plants. A great way to catch them in the act is to go out at night, (their favorite munch time) with a flashlight and collect them off of your tomato plants then.

Caterpillars—behind every garden caterpillar is a beautiful butterfly (or moth). I usually move some and keep some depending on how badly they are eating my plants. But first I try to identify what type of catepillar it is to determine the proper course of action that I should take. The picture above is one I left behind, which a few days later morphed into a cabbage butterfly and now flies happily around my garden.

Other steps you can take:
~ Sow more plants that you want or need so that you have the room to willingly sacrifice some of your produce to the insects and yet still end up with enough uneaten vegetables for you and your family.

~ For plants such as salad greens, kale, mustard greens, etc, when you see bottom leaves getting eaten and holey but don’t see the culprit, do not remove the leaves or the insect will just move up the plant. Pick higher up on the plant and leave the bottom stalks as the sacrificial leaves.

~ Walk up to the local park to release the harmful insects you find, at least it gives them a chance at life and gets you exercising, right?!

~ Check in your bug guides or online before removing an insect as you could actually be removing a solution.

Disclaimer: Mandaseed does not claim to be an expert, simply an amateur gardener sharing her experiences.

Saved by the Ladybug

Early in my growing season I had the typical problem of most gardeners—aphids had infested multiple plants in my garden. The base of my kale looked like broccoli florets from so many egg sacks brewing with future gorgers of my beloved organic produce.

Faced with the dilemma of how do I deal with this problem organically I knew that aphids were the preferred snack of ladybugs so I just threw my intentions out to the universe…I NEED LADYBUGS… and lo and behold a few weeks later that is exactly what I found, in multitude.

For some reason I woke earlier than usual one morning and took my dogs out for their first walk of the day. The sun was just beginning to rise and so the air had not yet reached its typical desert swelter. A property a few doors down was cleared for new construction and therefore the grass on the curb had not been cut in months. As I stopped by this grass I looked down and what do I see but hundreds of beautiful ladybugs along with quite a few ladybug nymphs. I could barely contain my excitement.

I rushed home to grab my insect collection box and cheerfully walked back to the grass patch. Slowly and gently I collected around 30 ladybugs and a few nymphs. If you are not certain what ladybug larva look like, here is a great link to familiarize yourself: www.whatsthatbug.com/lady.html (the second picture down on the left look like the type I have seen in my area).

I carefully opened the box in various locations of my garden in hopes of increasing the chances that they would find a suitable habitat and not fly away. Some did immediately leave the premises, but I am pleased to report that quite a few did stay. It has been around two months since this happened and not only has my aphid infestation disappeared on my kale and other vegetables, but the whiteflies that were covering the buds of my roses are gone as well.

I could not be happier to have found a natural and organic solution to this problem and smile as I walk around my garden and see ladybugs climbing up and down the stalks of my healthy corn, taking cover on the underside of the leaves on my grapevine and flying around with contentment. Furthermore, I feel great satisfaction as I munch on my bug-free kale leaves that I chose to find a solution that enables me to be a woman working in harmony with nature.