tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-61390478203411350102024-03-05T16:08:09.582-08:00HOMEGROWN HEALTHYGROWING MY GARDEN ORGANICALLYHomegrown Healthyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12723308738536655907noreply@blogger.comBlogger10125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6139047820341135010.post-57157469769247405402011-07-14T17:35:00.000-07:002011-07-16T06:14:45.277-07:00Curing Garlic for Storage<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Tow0f8iBsrLUFRmPbleK6Z0f5PP-2qLHaWN8fXnAzp_D2myz7Up1bxESDkG8u0ZryqTuzlDVPgwox2OvIbyJiqNk-an5JGvNl1S-UqgtEvhNCiMzWKUHIvUVDeRX3ab02wl8ofaxq-gv/s1600/IMG_0422wtmk.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Tow0f8iBsrLUFRmPbleK6Z0f5PP-2qLHaWN8fXnAzp_D2myz7Up1bxESDkG8u0ZryqTuzlDVPgwox2OvIbyJiqNk-an5JGvNl1S-UqgtEvhNCiMzWKUHIvUVDeRX3ab02wl8ofaxq-gv/s400/IMG_0422wtmk.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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</span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div style="font: 12.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I recently completed the process of curing garlic and wanted to share what I have learned. First, let me explain that I did an excessive amount of research on the subject and found conflicting information on the topic. Multiple sources said to cure garlic in full sun (1), while others said to dry it in the shade (2). Since I could not find a well-ventilated, shady location on my property (my garage = extreme heat/no ventilation and I don’t have a barn), I choose to cure my garlic in the sun. This did not turn out to be the best advice for me. </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"></span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I ended up having to follow the weather forecast constantly and make sure to cover the bulbs with a tarp every time there was the threat of rain. When the bulbs were covered, the heat trapped under the tarp caused the paper on the bulbs to slightly burn and locked in excessive moisture. </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"></span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">After 4 weeks of curing, I cut the leaves off at the neck and found that the center of the stalks were still green and moist, even though the literature stated it takes 2-3 weeks to dry.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"></span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I believe the sun-dry method took twice as long to cure. In addition, I ended up putting in much more time and effort than I would have if I had hand-built some type of overhang to create a shady location for the bulbs. The proper curing of garlic is imperative for the bulbs to be able to last in storage. I am hoping that my garlic cured enough that it will at least survive until Fall so that I can replant a new crop and take what I have learned to cure a stellar crop next year. </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"></span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">(1) One example is: The Vegetable Gardener’s BIBLE, pg 247</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #003dcc; font-family: Helvetica;"><span style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #444444;">(</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #444444;">2) </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #444444;">One example is:</span> </span></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px; text-decoration: underline;"><b><a href="http://www.seedsavers.org/garlic_guide.htm"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">http://www.seedsavers.org/garlic_guide.htm</span></span></a></b></span></span></span><br />
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</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"></span></div>Homegrown Healthyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12723308738536655907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6139047820341135010.post-56790997725696300992011-03-29T06:41:00.000-07:002011-07-25T14:06:02.141-07:00Hardening Off Seedlings<div style="font: 12.0px Times New Roman; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 16.0px 0.0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">When starting plants indoors from seed, they should be “hardened off” before transplanting them into the garden. Hardening off is the process of gradually exposing the seedlings to the temperature and relative humidity outside, which results in a thickening of the cell walls. This process will help to condition the plant for the growing environment outside. Seedlings that are not hardened off prior to planting can exhibit severely stunted growth, or in the worst-case scenario, be shocked beyond repair by either the extreme heat or cold that they are suddenly exposed to.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPz8mZwUK102H3iVErYoPfRShsnnCtEN8cNVcPQrpG_vOrTMZFqgnbagUYU-_KZgvrBV7cZWs5W9vOzowy2EyLGAXMXCABeJAQ08hyphenhyphenohM8aQwnjg5bOWMnc9-f8DkT18ZnlEyVzFZzle_8/s1600/IMG_0710wtmk.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPz8mZwUK102H3iVErYoPfRShsnnCtEN8cNVcPQrpG_vOrTMZFqgnbagUYU-_KZgvrBV7cZWs5W9vOzowy2EyLGAXMXCABeJAQ08hyphenhyphenohM8aQwnjg5bOWMnc9-f8DkT18ZnlEyVzFZzle_8/s320/IMG_0710wtmk.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Begin hardening off at least two weeks prior to planting in the garden and if in early spring, not before temperatures have reached at least 45 degrees or above. Place your seedlings in a well protected area where they will not be knocked or blown over, and in an area that does not get direct sunlight for the first few days. A good rule of thumb is to begin hardening off with two hours of exposure outside, then bring the plants back indoors. Each day gradually increase the plant’s exposure to both the outdoor temperature and the amount of direct sunlight until the plants are outdoors for 24 hours consecutively.</span></div></div><div style="font: 12.0px Times New Roman; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 16.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It is important to keep your plants well watered if they are in small pots or cell packs since their access to moisture is extremely limited. You may need to check the soil a couple of times a day to ensure that it does not completely dry out. </span></span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Times New Roman; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 16.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once your plants are able to be outdoors for a 24-hour period, they should be successfully hardened off and ready to be planted in the garden. Hardening off is an important gardening technique which enables your seedlings to have a better start toward growing into healthy, happy plants.</span></span></span></div>Homegrown Healthyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12723308738536655907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6139047820341135010.post-15499800963268329862010-08-26T09:21:00.000-07:002011-07-25T14:13:51.092-07:00Hand Pollination<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11px;"></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA5CmQFwQRC9h20O95ovQ9U0owpI-vOeTM9cRm-kaeiIL4wBaF7CVkLCKZGNOxooGiT3NIIPUtLb7CxbRk4iXc-gS3fvgU_FhRaA_iiZv6WSoH50y4fxUot8kVg0ucJWzEFDmsaqLJddwF/s1600/IMG_1296wtmk.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA5CmQFwQRC9h20O95ovQ9U0owpI-vOeTM9cRm-kaeiIL4wBaF7CVkLCKZGNOxooGiT3NIIPUtLb7CxbRk4iXc-gS3fvgU_FhRaA_iiZv6WSoH50y4fxUot8kVg0ucJWzEFDmsaqLJddwF/s320/IMG_1296wtmk.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Last month I attended a conference in Northeast Iowa hosted by the Seed Savers Exchange. It is an annual 3-day event that offers educational workshops on a plethora of topics related to gardening and seed saving. I had a wonderful experience and was thrilled to be amongst like-minded people who are as passionate as I am about “saving America’s Garden Heritage”.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">One of the workshops I attended was entitled “Squash Hand Pollination” and completely rocked my seed saving world. Plants from the Cucurbitaceae family (squash, melons, cucumbers, gourds) rely on insects for pollination. Therefore, plants within the same species will cross-pollinate and require human intervention to save pure seed. In the past, I was only able to grow one species per season to avoid cross-pollination, but now after this workshop, I can finally grow as many cucurbits as I want and be confident that I am saving pure seed!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">This hand pollination technique can be used on squash, melons, cucumbers, and watermelons. However, this information is specific to pollinating all types of squash, which have the largest blossoms and are easiest to practice on while perfecting your technique.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The tools you will need are: 4 inch wide masking tape, bright flagging or surveyor's tape, sharpie, small bucket to place petals.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The steps to hand-pollinate are as follows:</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">1. Look at your plant and become familiar with the differences between the male and female flowers. Male flowers are on top of a long, thin stem that extends out from the vine. Female flowers are closer to the vine and sit on top of a small immature fruit, about the size of a dime or quarter.</span></div></span></span><br />
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</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2. Inspect the blossoms in the morning and evening until you are familiar with and can identify which flowers are about to open. Blossoms that look like they will open the next morning, need to be: taped shut if they are male, or tied shut if they are female--the night before they open. Tape shut 3 male flowers for every 1 female flower.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf9c-areDMSq_uEgydMP47d_QKHIcXLuAJnPi1lPm9jVsFrtC-Wi01N0jZcaBZwIkcD8x4OmLromMm49L-LHMbVE_9PPXIMKMl1Sp7hBcbMzLQOQZmQP7prFtu8Rx2mmMjqb8uxyH9NsiI/s1600/IMG_1304wtmk.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf9c-areDMSq_uEgydMP47d_QKHIcXLuAJnPi1lPm9jVsFrtC-Wi01N0jZcaBZwIkcD8x4OmLromMm49L-LHMbVE_9PPXIMKMl1Sp7hBcbMzLQOQZmQP7prFtu8Rx2mmMjqb8uxyH9NsiI/s320/IMG_1304wtmk.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Female blossom that was tied the night before with surveyors tape</span> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiNjwsRDxNR6LnI7FThG3aeXhIqxbkXrPKaCvqr06bUY75Xygr0xUui7_bd4kAPImG7wE57cDFg348x3zP27ZnEixVrYUSjKz2x8hgtdG0GpVp8BZwnL8fYqqtTkeiw72J-rjP7PLW_NvX/s1600/IMG_1305wtmk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiNjwsRDxNR6LnI7FThG3aeXhIqxbkXrPKaCvqr06bUY75Xygr0xUui7_bd4kAPImG7wE57cDFg348x3zP27ZnEixVrYUSjKz2x8hgtdG0GpVp8BZwnL8fYqqtTkeiw72J-rjP7PLW_NvX/s320/IMG_1305wtmk.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Three male blossoms taped with 4 inch wide masking tape</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3. The morning after you taped and tied your blossoms, rip off the top petals of the female blossom (from where the tie is and above). Then remove all of the petals from the male blossom to expose the anther. Place petals into a small bucket, do not leave on the ground.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz1hHoFuTnIxbHxCdoeFYy5VhybD7TLYlJgvkgZCdzWRPUoyd8bOlg8pR9Dt4rVhjfqcEaMfMJ_z-eaL3qnEbaIFBnhBYHcV1NVVCAdG64Bee6DDMUFCjp1eO4-9fpiHEaP7g3spDaW20A/s1600/IMG_1313wtmk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz1hHoFuTnIxbHxCdoeFYy5VhybD7TLYlJgvkgZCdzWRPUoyd8bOlg8pR9Dt4rVhjfqcEaMfMJ_z-eaL3qnEbaIFBnhBYHcV1NVVCAdG64Bee6DDMUFCjp1eO4-9fpiHEaP7g3spDaW20A/s320/IMG_1313wtmk.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Top of female blossom removed</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijSJflB9fVXOmwXadUq3w5CJUHBxy8dvpDR6ZPNLwoxQh8HLQIXdhKt9DVt8agvHB9mCaaWpZXLqFa_QOsVmFTCYbcXJZDTCjYVe5LKKC2OyInvBwZU2tyRFFeh06r0HkXUziXmAN82TOn/s1600/IMG_1322wtmk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijSJflB9fVXOmwXadUq3w5CJUHBxy8dvpDR6ZPNLwoxQh8HLQIXdhKt9DVt8agvHB9mCaaWpZXLqFa_QOsVmFTCYbcXJZDTCjYVe5LKKC2OyInvBwZU2tyRFFeh06r0HkXUziXmAN82TOn/s320/IMG_1322wtmk.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Male flower petals removed and anther exposed</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">4. The pollen on the male is located on the anther. One at a time, brush the anther from the three males onto the stigma of the one female.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi22bxqlEuHr_0uOk_4t5STO2XJGn9anJTB_sRKuRL5zPKa8bGtIi_J5Zq5m8At4RUzeZW6tJ8xjO9C6HxevoCTtEf_eg5s-ykAfTRSPnXzknHUVgwvV017dqzAxFP474BeymMsxNFq78Iv/s1600/IMG_1317wtmk.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi22bxqlEuHr_0uOk_4t5STO2XJGn9anJTB_sRKuRL5zPKa8bGtIi_J5Zq5m8At4RUzeZW6tJ8xjO9C6HxevoCTtEf_eg5s-ykAfTRSPnXzknHUVgwvV017dqzAxFP474BeymMsxNFq78Iv/s320/IMG_1317wtmk.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">SSE staff transferring pollen from the anther to the stigma</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">5. Now tape the top part of the female blossom shut. Make sure the tape is not touching the ovum, (the little immature fruit).</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtWBUc42Abh-9TzuQftoMhQhzE38-16Bv7jVOvmTSw3kIFpe_v19g7VGcPvhTQkdVh0Yrly6PlmZ4H4h8VwA5H9deM-35eDgMP7tr70XHdCqw3h3hlcMOhdOFPw2QroDSQ9FpnCblhhPUz/s1600/IMG_1327wtmk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtWBUc42Abh-9TzuQftoMhQhzE38-16Bv7jVOvmTSw3kIFpe_v19g7VGcPvhTQkdVh0Yrly6PlmZ4H4h8VwA5H9deM-35eDgMP7tr70XHdCqw3h3hlcMOhdOFPw2QroDSQ9FpnCblhhPUz/s400/IMG_1327wtmk.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Female blossom taped shut after being hand pollinated<br />
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<div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">6. Mark the blossom you just hand pollinated with bright flagging tape that lists the variety, the date, and the # of males used. Since the taped blossom top will naturally fall off as it ripens, it is important that each squash you hand pollinated is properly identified. Then at harvest time you will know, with confidence, that the seed you save from that particular fruit will be pure.</span></span></div></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXZUYDYJfXZh3XbXf2uLkK0-K4On3_3p0cs2T7epCFOrhMHl2G_ZJ5QvR19q_GLDJQJ9-V1EqkrrB8vZ2_5m7-aTOYoNJLQg7jQM8bIWuPy534hgTLk6bWhmWMbv-jEUmr2U9qQTtOYhql/s1600/IMG_1328wtmk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXZUYDYJfXZh3XbXf2uLkK0-K4On3_3p0cs2T7epCFOrhMHl2G_ZJ5QvR19q_GLDJQJ9-V1EqkrrB8vZ2_5m7-aTOYoNJLQg7jQM8bIWuPy534hgTLk6bWhmWMbv-jEUmr2U9qQTtOYhql/s400/IMG_1328wtmk.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">SSE staff shows flagging tape with info about squash she just pollinated</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJzF3N326MI9OWakI7-7qEJRP-bXLOwlwvDU5tAPsEoSVXPUGweG9F5rNSS14HBPbykvGEIhHNd2Qt3DOR_uYsI_aa7VY7J8h2DPXYX4dzdYs_kiNGkdJHHLaFUsB1xveHWVJ3nXF-kLFk/s1600/IMG_1329wtmk.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJzF3N326MI9OWakI7-7qEJRP-bXLOwlwvDU5tAPsEoSVXPUGweG9F5rNSS14HBPbykvGEIhHNd2Qt3DOR_uYsI_aa7VY7J8h2DPXYX4dzdYs_kiNGkdJHHLaFUsB1xveHWVJ3nXF-kLFk/s320/IMG_1329wtmk.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At harvest time, hand pollinated squash can be identified by the flagging tape</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">7. B</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">efore moving on to the next plant, make sure that you use hand sanitizer, so that you do not spread pollen or disease.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thank you Seed Savers Exchange for teaching me how to hand-pollinate. In turn, I hope to pass this knowledge on to others. Now let's all get out there and pollinate!</span></div><div><div><div><div class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><br />
</div></div></div></div>Homegrown Healthyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12723308738536655907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6139047820341135010.post-53119416177031212812010-05-15T18:44:00.002-07:002010-06-23T15:01:35.483-07:00Mulching your Vegetables<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyKhR0yrMM7DdY5UtRuRdgY0ONSIrLNTQO6ceWCAfvodSs0l9XMSlcG4nhx2JLBpU1yehpOy-bv6eWvnC3uYWQdS7kIUkpTbpFu3TXvI2-J2Q2m8FkWq-VfBsPZ9zic1sCqlhtqB3_z5_2/s1600/DSC_0163wtmk.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyKhR0yrMM7DdY5UtRuRdgY0ONSIrLNTQO6ceWCAfvodSs0l9XMSlcG4nhx2JLBpU1yehpOy-bv6eWvnC3uYWQdS7kIUkpTbpFu3TXvI2-J2Q2m8FkWq-VfBsPZ9zic1sCqlhtqB3_z5_2/s320/DSC_0163wtmk.JPG" /></a></div>Applying mulch to your vegetable garden is an important part of maintaining healthy plants. Mulch serves to retain much-needed moisture, can help block weeds, and at the end of the growing season can be turned over into the soil where it breaks down, and provides additional nutrients.<br />
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While living in PA and CA, I always mulched my vegetable beds with straw, with no complaints. When I moved to my current state--North Carolina--I had to revamp my mulching habit. I went to at least 4 locally owned garden centers and no one I spoke with was familiar with mulching with straw and hence, did not sell it. <br />
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What they did suggest was that I use bark mulch, wood chips or peat moss, but I knew that none of those solutions were exactly what I was looking for. Peat moss is highly acidic and could easily change the Ph of the soil to a level that is not agreeable to most vegetables. It is also very lightweight and would probably blow away at the first strong wind. The bark and wood chips although great for shrubs, trees and perennials are too chunky and could disrupt fragile seedlings as they emerge. Barks and wood chips also would not break down into the soil as easily, to your dismay when you go to plant next season.<br />
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So what I decided to mulch with was our fresh cut organic grass clippings. It is the perfect weight, is easy to apply, comes in an abundance and best of all is recycled and free. I did not use the clippings from the first cut of Spring because we let the grass grow a bit and some of the stalks had seeded, which I did not want to scatter all over my beds. So here are some basic guidelines I followed in mulching:<br />
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• Use clippings from grass that has only had 1-2 weeks of growth since after 2 weeks you run the risk of spreading seeds onto your beds.<br />
• Do not use clippings from grass that has been treated with any chemicals such as weed block or miracle grow.<br />
• Apply at least 1/2 inch thick of clippings onto your vegetable beds, being careful to scatter gently around young seedlings, rather than throw down in clumps. <br />
• Reapply as needed as the growing season progress.<br />
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It’s that easy! After the season ends and you have pulled your plants out of their beds, just simply take a shovel and turn over the remaining grass clipping into the soil. The clippings will break down and create nitrogen rich soil that your plants will thank you for next year.Homegrown Healthyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12723308738536655907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6139047820341135010.post-10866964724134715792010-01-18T12:19:00.000-08:002011-07-15T14:27:45.524-07:00Ask A Gardener<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfxMoGPOKlAjm9Yr9E04YTKCqCC7o3ZnvpJlXQEvRxdAeC-wC_66bsUajeHq3keU5VTnVbQwcmlSLzpz8ugrs6pbK_ZBW-oUxe-qabG5UtxqrLZYc8-mFctvYneZ-ndyeIZ0ic4z6swW2R/s1600/IMG_0431wtmk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfxMoGPOKlAjm9Yr9E04YTKCqCC7o3ZnvpJlXQEvRxdAeC-wC_66bsUajeHq3keU5VTnVbQwcmlSLzpz8ugrs6pbK_ZBW-oUxe-qabG5UtxqrLZYc8-mFctvYneZ-ndyeIZ0ic4z6swW2R/s400/IMG_0431wtmk.jpg" width="300" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I get so many gardening questions from my customers on Etsy that I thought I should start a question/answer thread on my blog. I am no expert, just a passionate gardener who loves to share my experiences with others. If you have a question you would like to share, just post it in the comments section, I will do my best to answer it.</span></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">TOPIC: PLANTING BLUEBERRIES</span></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Question:</span></i></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I really want to start growing berries, how do I start? I have in the past bought blueberry and strawberry plants and they always fail on me. I mulch, compost, have a great garden space, so what am I doing wrong? We live in Shasta County, blackberries are growing all over the place, and I want them in my yard too. </span></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Help!</span></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Neely</span></i></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px; text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://www.neely1974.etsy.com/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">www.neely1974.etsy.com</span></a></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Tahoma; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Answer:</span></i></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ok, you live in Zone 9. Berries typically grow much better in lower zones with a combination of weather, especially cool. Are the blackberries you see all over the place, planted or wild varieties? If a neighbor planted them you can ask them what the name of that variety is since you know it thrives there. If they are wild, they are likely not as edible as you may want in your garden and are not necessarily an indication that garden blackberries grow well there.</span></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Tahoma; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 16.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Regarding Blueberries: Many blueberry cultivars cannot live in zone 9. However, the ones that I know of that can are rabbiteye blueberries. Varieties of rabbiteye include: Austin, Woodard, Baldwin, Bluebelle and Brightblue (among others). If you can't find any of those types locally, order them online from a reputable source, it is worth the wait and shipping cost for the right type of plant for your zone. Since rabbiteye’s are not self-fertile, you will need to plant 2 different varieties to ensure cross-pollination.</span></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The first thing I would do before planting a more finicky plant or tree is soil test. You can buy a home kit at a garden center or contact your local Cooperative Extension Service about their soil-testing program. Blueberries like acidic soil with a Ph between 4.5 and 5.0. If your Ph is higher than this, you can mix peat moss in with the soil. They should be mulched with pine needles around the plant to help maintain the acidic level of the soil. Also they do best when planted in cooler weather such as late fall for zone 9 or very early spring (like February). The first year when it flowers, pinch off all of the blooms so that the plant focuses its energy on growing the bush, not producing fruit that year.</span></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 15.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fertilize blueberries with blood meal, or cottonseed meal about 1 month after planting and again in mid-summer, then 2 times a year thereafter.</span></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hopes this helps!!</span></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Homegrown Healthy</span></i></span></div><div style="font: 13.0px Arial; line-height: 18.0px; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px; text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://www.homegrownhealthy.etsy.com/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">www.homegrownhealthy.etsy.com</span></a></span></div><div><br />
</div></span>Homegrown Healthyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12723308738536655907noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6139047820341135010.post-45614658056569224932009-02-04T16:41:00.000-08:002012-01-18T07:03:01.182-08:00Starting Seeds Indoors<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8UUOSz-6ShgjWVT74f4MNjzW4MGH13C35YtGC0eEfk8NLYuRCy5K-aLnh5Jf3FXyyDf_2icdNRSamnXVzz_vOzUJdCVKSdMmDfzx84HmNKEOxYHCSIpiRnFAOrqErDa_93sYWX_OHdJYw/s1600/seed+startwtmk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8UUOSz-6ShgjWVT74f4MNjzW4MGH13C35YtGC0eEfk8NLYuRCy5K-aLnh5Jf3FXyyDf_2icdNRSamnXVzz_vOzUJdCVKSdMmDfzx84HmNKEOxYHCSIpiRnFAOrqErDa_93sYWX_OHdJYw/s400/seed+startwtmk.jpg" width="386" /></a></div><br />
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When I lived (until a few years ago) in Pittsburgh, PA, I could not wait to get my hands back in the dirt after many long, dark, winter days. I usually spent the end of January planning and plotting my upcoming garden and depending on what I wanted to grow, would begin my seeds sometime in the beginning of February.<br />
Here is a seed starting system that I found to work best for me year after year.<br />
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Organic seeds are available at my etsy shop: <a href="http://www.homegrownhealthy.etsy.com/">www.homegrownhealthy.etsy.com</a><br />
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<strong>Supplies:</strong><br />
*Soilless Mix for seed starting, also called seed starting mix<br />
*Small containers, I use yogurt cups with holes punched into the bottom <br />
*Plastic wrap and rubber bands<br />
*Tray to place containers on for water drainage<br />
*Seedling Heat Mat (I use an old heating pad)<br />
*Two-light shoplight fixture (can purchase from hardware store)<br />
*Fluorescent bulbs, one warm, one cool per shoplight<br />
*Power strip (to plug in light, timer, heating pad)<br />
*Light timer<br />
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<strong>Directions:</strong><br />
1. Moisten soilless mix until wet, but not soaking. <br />
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2. Fill small containers such as 6-pack flats, yogurt containers (make drain holes) or other with the wet soilless mix. I use separate trays or containers per seed type since days to germination vary per plant type. <br />
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3. Use a toothpick or chopstick to punch holes in the soil in the middle of each container, follow planting depth instructions per seed type then place 2-3 seeds per hole. Gently push soil over hole and pat lightly. Cover with plastic wrap (or tray cover, if using) and secure with a rubber band to keep the plastic tight and from touching the soil. <br />
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4. Place the containers into some type of tray (for water drainage) and onto a seedling heat mat or old heating pad turned to the low setting. Make sure that the bottoms of the containers are not subjected to temperatures above 70-75 degrees. If it feels too warm, cover the heating pad with a towel or two. Once the seeds have sprouted, remove the heating pad so that you do not cook the roots.<br />
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5. Water lightly every day with a mister or spray bottle so that the soil remains damp, but not overly soaked.<br />
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6. Once the seeds start to sprout, you must remove the cover or plastic wrap and place the tray under fluorescent lights, 2 inches from the bulbs. Set the timer so that the seedlings get 16 hours of light a day. As the seedlings grow, use the shop light chain system to raise the lights so that at least 2 inches is maintained between the plants and the bulbs. <br />
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7. Fertilize the seedlings with fish emulsion once every 10 days. Dilute with water according to the package instructions.<br />
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8. Once the seedlings produce their second set of leaves, snip off the stems of the two weaker plants if applicable, so there is only one plant per container. At this stage you will want to allow the soil to dry slightly in between waterings. <br />
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9. Before planting outside, make sure to harden off the seedlings. Place outside for a few hours each day, increasing the number of hours outside each day for one to two weeks. To read more about hardening off, click here for my blog post about it: <a href="http://homegrownhealthy.blogspot.com/2011/03/hardening-off-seedlings.html">http://homegrownhealthy.blogspot.com/2011/03/hardening-off-seedlings.html</a><br />
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CAVEAT: After a 4-6 weeks of growth, if you are unable to plant the seedlings outside, transplant them into a larger pot so as not to stunt their growth or bind their roots. Then harden off and plant outside when danger of frost has passed and proper soil temperature has been reached.Homegrown Healthyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12723308738536655907noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6139047820341135010.post-23232642623762241852008-09-30T10:07:00.000-07:002011-09-20T12:49:06.014-07:00FALL PLANTINGAfter spending two months back east this summer and missing all of the harvest from my summer garden, I am gearing up to begin my fall planting. I also have been busy collecting seed from my summer crops which I have been posting for sale each day at: <a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.homegrownhealthy.etsy.com">www.homegrownhealthy.etsy.com</a><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDzBOPtSh9rDWrvWoLsM3YJuiPwHa9t5qoZaOTg7IggH7uYjXuad5PNPTfcSss1Xfo0y9rBZifZATxbbCbyWd8Xq7yTz6xg6wbkYvy6PsLatKNr2ABzs-Ru-G4p5cSmAc6pqQ-VNEkOu32/s1600/IMG_0413wtmk.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDzBOPtSh9rDWrvWoLsM3YJuiPwHa9t5qoZaOTg7IggH7uYjXuad5PNPTfcSss1Xfo0y9rBZifZATxbbCbyWd8Xq7yTz6xg6wbkYvy6PsLatKNr2ABzs-Ru-G4p5cSmAc6pqQ-VNEkOu32/s400/IMG_0413wtmk.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>The main benefit of living in a Zone 10 (besides the lack of slush and cold) is the extended gardening season. Since I ultimately want to be able to increase the overall % of organic food production for my family, a fall planting is imperative to achieving this goal. Being fairly new to zone 10 though I am having a hard time believing that so many vegetables can grow over the winter months, but after consulting multiple sources I am assured that these crops (and many more) can be grown over fall/winter in zone 9-10. To see what zone you live in, go to: <a href="http://www.backyardgardener.com/zone/index.html">www.backyardgardener.com/zone/index.html</a><br />
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<em>My modest Fall Garden will consist of:</em><br />
Garlic, Onions, Carrots, Winter Zucchini, Beets, Broccoli, Radish, Kale, Salad Greens<br />
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<em>Other common cool-season crops for Zones 9-10 are:<br />
</em>Brussels sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, Endive, Leeks, Parsley, Parsnip, Spinach, Swiss Chard, Sweet Peas, Turnips<br />
(Can be planted in September-December)<br />
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<em><em>Some Cool-Season Flowers include:</em><br />
</em>Calendula, Cineraria, Dianthus, Delphiniums, Iceland poppies, Pansies, Snapdragon, Wildflowers<br />
(Free wildflower seeds are available at my site with other seed purchase: <a href="http://www.homegrownhealthy.etsy.com/">www.homegrownhealthy.etsy.com</a>).<br />
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Source: <a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.digitalseed.com/gardener/schedule/vegetable.html">www.digitalseed.com/gardener/schedule/vegetable.html</a><br />
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To help you plan your Fall/Winter garden go to: The National Gardening Association: <a href="http://www.garden.com/">www.garden.com</a>/ for articles and support.<br />
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Happy Fall Planting!<br />
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Love and Sunshine,<br />
Mandaseed<br />
<a href="http://www.homegrownhealthy.etsy.com/"></a><br />
<em>Disclaimer: Mandaseed does not claim to be an expert, simply an amateur gardener sharing her experiences. </em>Homegrown Healthyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12723308738536655907noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6139047820341135010.post-9270001022422539592008-06-17T09:42:00.000-07:002011-07-25T13:59:21.424-07:00SAVING SEED<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNDuP-ePJlLqV10s4HYItI9sAasaMMCLXFIbF6AUkM_T0o3Ri3HPw3fjqWtUG_U2W_4uhCTML4MFGsLZRzNvRxWo5JbsANQq2TOOK0ueEf7s8qRninoKOM-tcOkY4I75llggrU5tLdzms6/s1600/IMG_5994wtmk.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNDuP-ePJlLqV10s4HYItI9sAasaMMCLXFIbF6AUkM_T0o3Ri3HPw3fjqWtUG_U2W_4uhCTML4MFGsLZRzNvRxWo5JbsANQq2TOOK0ueEf7s8qRninoKOM-tcOkY4I75llggrU5tLdzms6/s400/IMG_5994wtmk.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><em>To Seed or Not to Seed</em><br />
Part of my satisfaction in gardening is taking self-sufficiency to the next level by also collecting my own organic seeds to plant the following season (hear that Monsanto!). However, since most leafy plants like herbs, lettuces and other greens will stop producing once they begin to flower, there are decisions to be made in determining when to allow which plant to seed. <br />
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Although I want to eventually collect the seed, I also want to extend the lifecycle of the plant, so one simple way to do this with an herb or leafy green is to immediately pinch off the seed stalk once you see the plant begin to flower. In my garden this year that would apply to the sweet basil, lime basil, parsley, marjoram, oregano, mustard greens, mesclun greens, and lettuces. Since the plant can only be tricked so long to keep producing, you want to watch for signs that the plant is headed toward the end of its life cycle. This is evidenced by slowed growth and the plant stalk starting to become tall and spiny. At the first signs of this, I stop plucking the flowers and allow the plant to seed. <br />
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I have been able to extend the growth cycle of many lettuce leaves and produce twice as much basil this way. And I can’t imagine eating pasta without my fresh pesto sauce so believe me, I want MORE basil! In fact, I just harvested my garlic bulbs and hung them to dry last week. And with a fresh bunch of basil in hand, I’m off to the kitchen to start chopping.<br />
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<strong>Homegrown Vegan Basil Pesto</strong><br />
<em>In an attempt to create a healthier version while still enjoying the flavor of pesto, this version uses less than half the oil of a traditional pesto and no cheese. Adjust for your own taste.</em><br />
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2 large handfuls of basil leaves (washed and stems removed)<br />
5 arugula leaves<br />
2 cloves garlic<br />
¼ cup of pine nuts, dry toasted<br />
1 tsp fresh squeezed lemon juice<br />
3 Tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil <br />
Dash sea salt and pepper to taste<br />
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1. Wash basil leaves and remove stems.<br />
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2. In a small frying pan dry toast the pine nuts over low heat until they start to brown and let off a nutty smell.<br />
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3. Throw all of the ingredients (except the oil) into a food processor and pulse into small pieces, scraping down the sides with a spatula as necessary.<br />
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4. With the food processor still running, slowly add the oil in the top tunnel in a slow stream until it is well incorporated. <br />
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5. Toss over warm pasta and serve immediately.<br />
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This portion size works well to cover enough penne or bow tie pasta for two. I like to make and eat pesto fresh rather than have enough for leftovers and if you need more than two servings, simply double or triple this recipe. <br />
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<em>Disclaimer: Mandaseed does not claim to be an expert, simply an amateur gardener sharing her experiences.</em>Homegrown Healthyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12723308738536655907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6139047820341135010.post-75095538634966816332008-05-27T18:38:00.000-07:002011-07-15T14:07:55.065-07:00Garden Friend or Foe<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNsTSGKj1HSi7i8U6N6jIb2VXyxySA9cn3DGa4-hp1SwydkUMWmxKwgVa99WrzdjzRi6JKU7IYUR0tkBYNjnAKudHsK7R5CGxNueKNf-NfynKvpnzFSryN-4-28NcSay_GjzJv2jxt1Dih/s1600/100_5396_bwtmk.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="353" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNsTSGKj1HSi7i8U6N6jIb2VXyxySA9cn3DGa4-hp1SwydkUMWmxKwgVa99WrzdjzRi6JKU7IYUR0tkBYNjnAKudHsK7R5CGxNueKNf-NfynKvpnzFSryN-4-28NcSay_GjzJv2jxt1Dih/s400/100_5396_bwtmk.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One of the challenges I faced in learning how to garden organically was discovering how to differentiate beneficial insects from harmful ones and then figuring out what to do with them. Researching and becoming familiar with beneficial insects has been crucial to my production of a successful yield. Two great resources for me have been insect field guides and an awesome website called What’s That Bug: www.whatsthatbug.com </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As a vegetarian and active animal advocate I have always held animals in the highest regard, but it was my husband who taught me that insects deserve this same level of respect. Therefore, we do not knowingly or willingly kill insects in our family and that includes in the garden. So what do we do? It depends on what is being eaten and at what speed. Learning to deal with insects organically and humanely has been a process that evolves with each growing season. I love that about the passing of time; we learn and we grow.</span><br />
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<strong><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Some Common Insects and Solutions</span></strong><br />
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<em><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Aphids</span></em><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">—you are out of here. Call in the ladybugs as they are one beneficial insect that can literally save your garden. And it is so pretty to see them flying around every day. Go on an expedition early in the morning to collect them in your neighborhood or they can also be ordered online, do a Google search. </span><br />
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<em><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Spiders</span></em><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">—leave the poor spiders be. As one of the most hated insects these guys get a very bad rap. They are very helpful as they catch and prevent a multitude of insects from munching on your vegetables.</span><br />
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<em><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Grasshoppers</span></em><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">—sorry guys but any form of grasshopper or cricket is not welcome in our garden because they can wipe out an entire crop overnight. As I see them I carefully place them in my insect collection box, place water in there and then when we take our dogs on their next walk that day we take the box and move the grasshoppers to a safe location. </span><br />
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<em><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tomato Horn Worms</span></em><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">—Ok, here is the deal with these guys. You might find them in your garden in one of three stages: the larva (caterpillar)stage; as pupae under the soil; and then once they emerge from a pupae into what is called a hawkmoth. I find them in the pupae stage every spring when I turn over the soil. Apparently once they are in the pupae and moth form they are not harmful to your garden and therefore can be left alone. It is in the larva stage that they end up doing serious damage to tomatoes plants. A great way to catch them in the act is to go out at night, (their favorite munch time) with a flashlight and collect them off of your tomato plants then.</span><br />
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<em><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Caterpillars</span></em><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">—behind every garden caterpillar is a beautiful butterfly (or moth). Unfortunately, these beauties can reek havoc on your vegetables. I usually move some and keep some depending on how badly they are eating my plants. But first I try to identify what type of catepillar it is to determine the proper course of action that I should take. </span><br />
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<strong><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Other steps you can take:</span></strong><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">~ Sow more plants that you want or need so that you have the room to willingly sacrifice some of your produce to the insects and yet still end up with enough uneaten vegetables for you and your family.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">~ For plants such as salad greens, kale, mustard greens, etc, when you see bottom leaves getting eaten and holey but don’t see the culprit, do not remove the leaves or the insect will just move up the plant. Pick higher up on the plant and leave the bottom foliage as the sacrificial leaves.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">~ Walk up to the local park to release the harmful insects you find, at least it gives them a chance at life and gets you exercising, right?!</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">~ Check in your bug guides or online before removing an insect as you could actually be removing a solution.</span><br />
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<em><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Disclaimer: I do not claim to be an expert, simply an amateur gardener sharing my experiences. </span></em>Homegrown Healthyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12723308738536655907noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6139047820341135010.post-68825838209366142442008-05-17T10:49:00.001-07:002010-10-05T08:23:40.930-07:00Saved by the Ladybug<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSrsUANSIdlYU_EwXRVUbH33wllKDv1aX8KbwRRHoULQUhtwpNXqdxm0hSkkz0Eg0dBElBbznJBa50D4-p9SXD0lGjhlbBRozwNmPCwbhtPufy7emO0BTVsW1CKpy7qdDaUcj1aWrAUaJs/s1600-h/IMG_5372_b.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5201417227886942322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSrsUANSIdlYU_EwXRVUbH33wllKDv1aX8KbwRRHoULQUhtwpNXqdxm0hSkkz0Eg0dBElBbznJBa50D4-p9SXD0lGjhlbBRozwNmPCwbhtPufy7emO0BTVsW1CKpy7qdDaUcj1aWrAUaJs/s200/IMG_5372_b.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; margin: 0 10px 10px 0;" /></a><br />
Early in my growing season I had the typical problem of most gardeners—aphids had infested multiple plants in my garden. The base of my kale looked like broccoli florets from so many egg sacks brewing with future gorgers of my beloved organic produce.<br />
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Faced with the dilemma of how do I deal with this problem organically I knew that aphids were the preferred snack of ladybugs so I just threw my intentions out to the universe…I NEED LADYBUGS… and lo and behold a few weeks later that is exactly what I found, in multitude.<br />
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For some reason I woke earlier than usual one morning and took my dogs out for their first walk of the day. The sun was just beginning to rise and so the air had not yet reached its typical desert swelter. A property a few doors down was cleared for new construction and therefore the grass on the curb had not been cut in months. As I stopped by this grass I looked down and what do I see but hundreds of beautiful ladybugs along with quite a few ladybug larvae. I could barely contain my excitement.<br />
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I rushed home to grab my insect collection box and cheerfully walked back to the grass patch. Slowly and gently I collected around 30 ladybugs and a few larvae. If you are not certain what a ladybug larva looks like, here is a great link to familiarize yourself: <a href="http://www.whatsthatbug.com/lady.html">www.whatsthatbug.com/lady.html</a> (the second picture down on the left look like the type I have seen in my area).<br />
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I carefully opened the box in various locations of my garden in hopes of increasing the chances that they would find a suitable habitat and not fly away. Some did immediately leave the premises, but I am pleased to report that quite a few did stay. It has been around two months since this happened and not only has my aphid infestation disappeared on my kale and other vegetables, but the whiteflies that were covering the buds of my roses are gone as well.<br />
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I could not be happier to have found a natural and organic solution to this problem and smile as I walk around my garden and see ladybugs climbing up and down the stalks of my healthy corn, taking cover on the underside of the leaves on my grapevine and flying around with contentment. Furthermore, I feel great satisfaction as I munch on my bug-free kale leaves that I chose to find a solution that enables me to be a woman working in harmony with nature.Homegrown Healthyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12723308738536655907noreply@blogger.com0